FORMULATION AND ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF PEEL-OFF GEL MASK FROM PAEDERIA FOETIDA EXTRACT

The peel-Off gel mask is one of the unique characteristic forms of the mask that will form an elastic transparent film layer. It can be removed without rinsing after drying and leaving no residue. The manufacture of masks using natural material is better than synthetic materials as it can cause side effects and damage the natural shape of the skin. One of the natural materials that can be used as a natural ingredient mask is the Paederia Foetida leaf. Paederia Foetida leaf contains antioxidants beneficial as the antidote to free radicals. One of the antioxidants contained in the Paederia Foetida is a flavonoid compound. The research aimed to determine the best concentration of Paederia Foetida leaf extract in the formulation of pell off gel masks with high antioxidant activity. The research method consists of preparing the sample by macerating Paederia Foetida leaf powder using ethanol. Making peel-off gel mask with variation in concentration from Paederia Foetida leaf extract of 0%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%. mask quality test include organoleptic test, pH, Homogeneity, stability, Drying, and dispersibility—antioxidant activity test by using DPPH with expressed as IC50 concentration. The Result of the research is that Paederia Foetida leaf extract can be formulated into a peel-off gel mask stock. The formulation of a peel-off gel mask with a concentration of Paederia Foetida leaf extract of 20% was chosen because it meets the criteria of peel-off gel mask of Indonesian Nasional Standard (It is homogeneous and stable, pH 6, spreadability 6,5 cm, and dry time 28 minutes with an IC50 of 167.74 which is a weak antioxidant).


INTRODUCTION
Face masks are a mixture of chemicals and other ingredients used on the face to give a cleansing effect and a firm feel [1]. A peel-Off gel mask is one of the mask forms with a unique character that will form an elastic transparent film layer [2]. The benefit of a gel peel-off face mask is to prevent facial skin from being dull, dry, and wrinkled and can shrink pores caused by exposure to UV rays [3,4]. Making cosmetics using natural ingredients is better than using synthetic ingredients, which can cause side effects and damage the natural shape of the skin [4].
Natural ingredients used in making masks are plants containing antioxidants that can treat the skin by preventing premature aging [5].
Antioxidants are compounds that can ward off or reduce the negative impact of oxidants in the body caused by free radicals. DAN PENDIDIKAN KIMIA), Vol.7, No. 1, 2022, pp. 12-19 13

Sample Preparation
A 10 g of Paederia Foetida leaf powder was macerated using 100 mL ethanol p.a 96% for 5 x 24 hours with occasional stirring at room temperature. Then, it is filtered. The residue was macerated again with the same amount of solvent and day (the maceration process is repeated until the residue is colorless) [11].

Flavonoid Test
The test for flavonoids' presence was carried out using a phytochemical test on the  [11,13]. Paederia Foetida extract contains flavonoids by 1.18%.

Paederia Foetida Extract
The ingredients for making the peel-off Nipagin as a preservative, and the recommended concentration are 0.02-0.3% [17]. Glycerin and gelatin as a softener, and Alcohol 96% as a solvent for nipagin.

Mask Formulation
In this research, peel-off gel masks were made using variations in the extract volume. Each variation was tested for the gel and spreadability test. The observation was carried out on the seventh day due to organoleptic factors, the shape of the peeloff gel mask was already in the form of a gel, and the color of the mask was transparent green. Therefore, if it is less or more than 7 days, the mask's shape will be a little runny, and the color will be dark green.
Organoleptic tests are shown to obtain a peel-off gel mask stock with an attractive color, a smell that is acceptable to the user, and a comfortable shape to use, and are six people as panelists [21]. The results can be seen in Table 3. From the table, we can conclude by following the criteria of the form of a peel-off gel mask, F1 and F2 are in gel form (semi-thick and liquid), have a distinctive smell (foul-smelling), and transparent green gel.  [14].  showed that all the various formulations of the peel-off gel mask met the standard dry time for the Peel-off gel mask, which was 15-30 minutes [16]. PVA works through the development process by binding the existing water so that water molecules will be close together and attraction occurs between water molecules, lead to increased cohesiveness [20]. Spreadability test to determine the ability of the mask to spread when applied to the skin.
The easier it is applied to the skin, the greater the surface area of the mask's contact with the skin gets bigger. So, the absorption of substances on the skin will be more optimal.

Antioxidant Activity
The peel-off gel mask of Paederia Foetida leaf extract was tested for its antioxidant activity by using DPPH to determine the ability to catch free radicals.
Measurements of antioxidant activity are shown in Table 8.