POTENTIAL OF WATER EXTRACT OF THE WHITE FRANGIPANI (Plumeria acuminate) and HIBISCUS (Hibiscus tiliaceus) LEAVES POWDER AS TEXTILE NATURAL DYES

Synthetic dyes have a high environmental impact, especially on waters. The use of natural dyes for textiles provides new hope for ecological improvement. This article is to find out the yield of water extract of white frangipani (Plumeria acuminate) and hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus) leaves-powder, as well as to find out whether the water extracts have potential as textile natural dyes. Natural dyes must have a good quality of fastness. For this reason, the color fastness tests for washing with a launder meter and colorfastness against rubbing with a crock meter are performed. Colorfastness is assessed by comparing color changes to washing with grayscale and color changes due to staining on fabric with staining scale. The rubbing test is carried out on the wet and dry cloth. Cotton and polyester fabrics are samples that will be colored. Fixers used to bind dyes are Al2(SO4)3, CaCO3, and FeSO4.H2O. The results show that the water extraction of hibiscus and white frangipani leaves powder gave a yield of 11% (w/w) and 27 % (w/w), respectively. The test of colorfastness against washing showed that both water extract of the white frangipani dan hibiscus leaves has a pretty good average quality in staining scale but less in grayscale. The test against rubbing shows that the type of fixer used affects the quality of the colorfastness, but in general, the water extract of white frangipani leaves gives better quality as a potential of natural dye than hibiscus leaves.


INTRODUCTION
The need for clothing is getting higher, and this has resulted in the need for textile dyes also increasing. Textile dyes commonly used in fabric coloring are dyes derived from synthetic dyes [1]. Clothing manufacturers widely use synthetic dyes because they have low prices, there are a variety of color variations, good quality, and easy to obtain, but excessive use of synthetic dyes have caused many environmental problems, where most synthetic dyes contain pollutants dangerous heavy metals. Heavy metals that are usually found in synthetic dyes include metals Cu, Ni, Cr, Hg, and Co [2,3].
Color pollutants resulting from the fabric coloring process are discarded and flowed into the waters, which will eventually accumulate and cause damage to the aquatic environment [4]. On the other hand, the use of synthetic dyes also affects human health because it can cause cancer and other skin diseases [5].

White frangipani (Plumeria acuminate)
and hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus) plants thrive in Indonesia and both have very thick leaves ( Figure 1). White frangipani plants have many benefits, it is useful as a pain relief due to cavities, treat swollen gums, and can mature ulcers [6]. Boiled water of white frangipani leaves can also be used to treat scabies, skin ailments, and the essential ingredients of making mosquito coils. On the other hand, the frothy leaves of the white frangipani are very mash used [7,8]. Generally, when it grows thick, it is only cut down and left or thrown away. Thus, the need for research as a breakthrough or discovery in the use of frangipani plant leaves.   [12,13,14].
Some natural coloring pigments that are abundant around us include chlorophyll, carotenoids, tannins, and anthocyanins [15].
White frangipani leaves also contain tannins beside alkaloids and cyanogenic glycosides.
The tannin content in white frangipani and hibiscus leaves is between 4-10% and this has the potential to make it as a coloring agent. Tannin is one of the natural coloring pigments which will give a brown color [7,10].

Preparation of Natural Dyes
Leaves as a source of coloring should be washed using water and served cleanly.
Leaves are cut until smooth to make the drying process easier, drying is done by sunlight. Furthermore, leaves are mashed by grinding using a blender to produce leaves powder (simplicia). The simplicial is extracted by boiling of 250 grams of simplicia using 2.5 L water for about 2 hours or until the remaining water volume is one third. During the boiling process, the leave powder should be stirred regularly. Next, the extraction is cooled and filtered using a 150 mesh of a sieve. The resulting filtrate is reheated for the concentration process to become a paste. Then the paste is dried and mashed into a fine dye powder.

c. Color Locking (Fixation)
Fixers used in this study were

b. Rubbing test
The working principle to test the color fastness against rubbing is by rubbing cloth that has undergone a coloring process, in wet and dry conditions. Wet cloth or dry cloth is installed in the sample area on the crock meter. After the rubbing process, the fabric is evaluated using a staining scale.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The yields of water extracts of white frangipani and (Plumeria acuminate) and hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus) leaves powders were 27% and 11%, respectively. Both leaves extracts obtained have the same dark brown color ( Fig. 1b and 1d). As described above that tannin is one of the natural coloring pigments which will give a brown color [7,10].
It showed that the chemical component extracted by water from both leaves is tannin.
The resulting extracts will be used as fabric dyes; the fabrics used are cotton and polyester.

Gray Scale Test
Gray Scale Testing seeks to determine the fastness to laundry by looking at the differences of after washing and before washing. The smaller the color difference value means the better the fastness value.
This can be seen also from the value on the increased gray scale which means better fastness.  that stick to it will easily be separated from the fabric that makes a lot of fades [24].

Rubbing test
Rubbing test to determine the fastness against rubbing by looking at stains on fabric that has rubbed in dry or wet conditions